Argentium is a modern silver alloy that resists tarnish through its material composition — no coating, no plating, no treatment that wears away. AKOL STUDIO uses it for all primary cast forms. Most silver jewelry on the market is sterling 925, coated to delay tarnish. This is not that.

Most silver jewelry is made from sterling silver. Sterling has been the industry standard for centuries — 92.5% pure silver, alloyed with copper to add the hardness pure silver lacks. It works. But it tarnishes. Anyone who has worn a sterling ring daily knows the story: a grey film builds on the surface, transferred to skin, requiring polishing that removes a fraction of the metal each time.

Argentium 935 is a different alloy. AKOL STUDIO uses it for all primary cast forms.

What Argentium 935 Is

Argentium 935 is a silver alloy composed of 93.5% pure silver, at least 1% germanium, and copper. That 1% of germanium changes the material fundamentally.

Germanium is a metalloid — a material that behaves as both metal and semiconductor depending on conditions. In a silver alloy, it does two things. First, it migrates to the surface of the metal during casting and forms a transparent germanium oxide layer. This layer is self-healing: microscopic surface scratches close as the oxide reforms. Second, it inhibits the sulfidation reaction that causes sterling silver to tarnish. The tarnish on sterling silver is silver sulfide — a compound that forms when silver reacts with sulfur compounds in the air, in skin oils, and in everyday environments. Germanium blocks this reaction at the surface level, without any coating or treatment.

The result is a silver that stays bright through daily wear. Not permanently — no metal is unchanged by the world. But significantly more resistant than sterling, and without the need for any surface treatment to achieve it.

Argentium 935 vs Sterling Silver

The comparison matters because most silver jewelry on the market is sterling 925, and the difference is not obvious from looking at a piece.

Purity: Sterling is 92.5% silver. Argentium 935 is 93.5% silver — marginally purer, though this is not the meaningful difference.

Tarnish resistance: Sterling tarnishes through normal wear, particularly in humid conditions, near pools or the sea, and on skin with higher acidity. Argentium 935 resists this through the germanium oxide mechanism described above. The resistance is built into the alloy, not applied as a coating.

Coatings: Many silver jewelry brands apply a rhodium plating or anti-tarnish lacquer to sterling pieces to achieve tarnish resistance. These coatings wear away. The underlying sterling then tarnishes normally, often unevenly where the coating has abraded. Argentium 935 requires no coating. The surface is the material.

Nickel content: Argentium 935 is nickel-free. This matters for anyone with a nickel sensitivity — a common cause of contact dermatitis from jewelry.

Casting behaviour: Argentium 935 has a slightly different flow and solidification profile than sterling, which affects how it behaves in lost-wax casting. For complex sculptural forms — pieces with sharp angles, suspended elements, precise geometry — the alloy's properties require adjustment to the casting process. The results are worth it.

Why It Matters for Daily Wear

Jewelry that requires regular maintenance is jewelry that gets left in a drawer.

The objects AKOL STUDIO makes are designed to be worn daily — through a working day, through travel, through years of ordinary use. A ring that holds its surface without polishing. An earring that comes off at the end of the day looking the same as when it went on. This is what Argentium 935 makes possible in a way that sterling silver, without coating, cannot consistently deliver.

The material is part of the design logic, not a secondary decision. The governing principle for every AKOL STUDIO object is that the form and the material are inseparable. Argentium 935 is chosen because it is honest — it shows its own making, holds its surface, and does not depend on treatments that wear away.

On Sterling Silver

AKOL STUDIO uses sterling 925 in limited circumstances — clasps, chains, and ear posts where Argentium 935 findings are not available in the supply chain. These are the moving or connecting elements of an object, not the primary cast form.

Where this applies, it is noted in the object specifications. The distinction: Argentium 935 where the form demands it, sterling where movement does.

Objects that combine both materials are hallmarked at 925 under Dutch hallmarking regulations. This is standard practice and does not affect the tarnish-resistant properties of the primary cast element.

The Hallmark

Argentium 935 objects are hallmarked 935 — a mark that is becoming more recognized as the alloy gains use among independent makers who prioritize material integrity over convention. It is not as immediately recognizable as the 925 stamp most buyers know. But the number is higher, and what it represents — more silver, the germanium addition, no coating required — is the more accurate measure of the material's quality.

Argentium silver is still relatively rare. Most independent brands work with sterling because the supply chain is simpler and the material is more familiar. AKOL STUDIO uses Argentium 935 because the properties align with what the objects are made to do: be worn every day, hold their shape, and not require maintenance to stay that way.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Argentium silver?

Argentium silver is a modern silver alloy containing at least 93.5% pure silver and a minimum of 1% germanium. The germanium creates a self-healing oxide layer on the surface that resists tarnish without any coating or plating. It is distinct from sterling silver (925), which contains copper instead of germanium and tarnishes through normal wear.

Does Argentium 935 tarnish?

Argentium 935 is significantly more tarnish-resistant than sterling silver, but no metal is immune to change. In daily wear conditions — normal humidity, contact with skin, everyday environments — Argentium 935 maintains its surface without polishing. Prolonged exposure to harsh chemicals, chlorine, or high-sulfur environments can still affect any silver alloy.

Argentium vs sterling silver — which is better?

For daily wear without maintenance, Argentium 935 performs better than uncoated sterling silver. Sterling tarnishes through normal wear; Argentium resists it through its germanium composition. Many sterling pieces are rhodium-plated to compensate — that plating wears away. Argentium requires no coating. For pieces designed to be worn and lived in, Argentium is the more honest material choice.

Is Argentium silver hypoallergenic?

Argentium 935 is nickel-free, making it suitable for people with nickel sensitivity — one of the most common causes of contact dermatitis from jewelry. Sterling silver alloys sometimes contain trace nickel depending on the supplier. AKOL STUDIO uses Argentium 935 specifically because it avoids this.

How do you care for Argentium 935 silver?

Minimal care is the point. Rinse with warm water if needed. Dry with a soft cloth. Store away from direct sunlight. No polishing compounds, no silver dips, no ultrasonic cleaning required for routine maintenance. If the surface dulls over years of wear, a gentle polish with a soft cloth is sufficient. Avoid chlorine, bleach, and harsh cleaning products.

Is Argentium silver more expensive than sterling?

The raw material cost of Argentium 935 is marginally higher than sterling 925, reflecting the higher silver content and the addition of germanium. The meaningful cost difference for AKOL STUDIO objects is in the casting process — Argentium requires adjusted parameters and specialist handling. The result is a piece that does not require coating or retreatment, which represents better long-term value than a coated sterling piece that degrades.

What is the hallmark on an AKOL STUDIO object?

Primary cast forms in Argentium 935 are hallmarked 935 under Dutch hallmarking regulations (Waarborg Holland). Objects that include sterling 925 components — clasps, ear posts, chain elements — are hallmarked at 925, the lowest fineness present. This is standard Dutch hallmarking practice and does not affect the tarnish-resistant properties of the Argentium primary form.

AKOL STUDIO makes sculptural silver objects, based in Amsterdam. All primary cast forms use Argentium 935. Made to order.